Sunday, April 19, 2015

The Dole Trail 

The Dole Trail was an historic trail in Southwest Harbor on Maine's Mount Desert Island. It provided seaborne access to hiking destinations on the west side of MDI, including Fernald Point, which was the site of the 1613 European settlement by French Jesuit missionaries, Flying Mountain, Beech Mountain, Echo Lake and Long Pond.*1

1916 map (green arrow shows Dole Trail)
When the old trail was built or by whom is not known. It was first mentioned as the Dole Trail in the 1915 A Path Guide of Mount Desert Island, Maine, with its start at Dole Landing on Connor Cove and end at Somesville Road opposite Beech Hill Road.*2 The earliest map to show the 0.8 mile Dole Trail was the 1916 Map Of Mount Desert Island, compiled by Bates, Rand and Jacques.*3 On the 1926 Path Map of the Western Part of Mount Desert Island, the starting point in Connor Cove was specified as the "Dole Slip." The map also showed it linking to a path heading west along the Connor Cove shoreline to the mouth of Norwood Cove at the Southwest Harbor causeway, where it then turned north to Fernald Point Road. The 1928 Walks on Mount Desert Island, Maine, also spoke of the Dole Trail and mentioned the Dole Slip.*4 Possibly the last map to depict the trail was the 1942 U.S. Geological Survey Topographic Map of Acadia National Park and Vicinity. It showed the trail originating at Fernald Point Road, rather than at Connor Cove, and omitted the Connor Cove trail heading west from the Dole Trail to Norwood Cove.

1942 topo map

Charles F. Dole
The names Dole Trail and Dole Landing/Slip derive from the name of the owner of the property, Charles Fletcher Dole. Born in Brewer, ME in 1845 to Rev. Nathan and Caroline (Fletcher) Dole, he graduated second highest in his class from Harvard in 1868. Afterwards he entered the Andover Theological Seminary, graduating in 1872. For a short while he was a professor of Greek at the University of Vermont. In 1873 he married Frances Drummond. For 40 years, between 1876 and 1916, he was the minister of the First Congregational Church (Unitarian) in Jamaica Plain, a Boston neighborhood. The 5' 11", hazel-eyed Dole was a prominent author of religious and sociological themes and a pacifist.

In his autobiography Dole recounted his first visit to MDI: "In 1876 we went to Bar Harbor. Those were the days when you made your own trails and climbed over the mountains wherever you wished; you lived the simpler life; you hired a rowboat by the week and took your chances with the winds and the fog in visiting miles of beautiful wooded shores and picturesque islands."*5  Two of the earliest summer residents of Southwest Harbor, he and Frances bought land in 1884 and built The Ledge, their summer home on Fernald Point Road. He described the site as being near a location, "where now the 'rusticators' come in troops to see splendid sunsets, and to look over the "Jesuits' Field" on the old Fernald farm, with its springs of ice-cold water under the shore, each submerged twice a day with the salt tides and presently pure as crystal again."*6
Dole died in Jamaica Plain in 1927 and was cremated at Forest Hills Cemetery, Boston. His ashes are presumed to have been scattered near The Ledge.

Concerning the eponymous trail, Dole posted a notice in 1903 on a barrier across it informing his neighbors their occasional use was at their own risk and constituted no claim to any lawful or permanent right of way over his land.*7 The Dole Trail still exists, but it lies mostly on private property, as also do remnants of the Dole home and slip. Out of respect for the landowners' privacy I have omitted my usual GPS coordinates.
Dole house foundation and ledge
Dole Slip
It is interesting to note the Doles' son, James, moved to the Territory of Hawaii in 1899, a year after its annexation to the U.S. He established the pineapple industry there and a business later named the Dole Pineapple Company. Charles Dole's cousin, Sanford Dole, was the Hawaiian Territory's first governor.

*Footnotes:
1 For more on the historic European settlement please see previous blog posts dated 9/27/2012, 6/8/2013, 10/22/2014, and 1/26/2015.
2 A Path Guide of Mount Desert Island, Maine. Waldron Bates, Edward Rand and Herbert Jacques. 1915. Pp. 37, 40 and 42.
3 The number 10 on this map indicated the Dole Trail, as enumerated in the 1915 Path Guide.
4 Walks on Mount Desert Island, Maine. Harold Peabody and Charles H. Grandgent. 1928. Pp. 89 and 90.
5 My Eighty Years. Charles F. Dole. E.P. Dutton & Co., NY. 1927. P. 284.
6 Ibid., p. 290.
7 Hancock County Registry of Deeds, book 398/page 249.

Friday, March 13, 2015

The Civilian Conservation Corps

At Acadia National Park headquarters off Eagle Lake Road on Mount Desert Island, ME, in front of its visitor center is a small plaque on a rock that states:
CCC memorial-Acadia NP
This plaque was dedicated by Chapter 111 Alumni by former members of the Civilian Conservation Corps in memory of Franklin Delano Roosevelt and the members, who served at this post and other C.C.C. camps in Maine and throughout the United States between the years of 1933 to 1942. Dedicated September 12, 1992

The CCC was established in 1933 by President Roosevelt to provide jobs to unemployed and poverty-stricken men aged 18 to 25 (later changed to 17 to 28) and to conserve the country's natural resources. Almost immediately some 275,000 young men were put to work in forests, parks and public lands across the United States. They were paid $30 monthly for their five-day workweeks during their six-month tours. Of that, $15 was sent home to their dependents, $7 was put into their CCC savings account, and they were paid $8 in cash. They could re-enroll for a maximum term of two years. Promotions and higher pay were possible. They lived in U.S. Army-run camps supervised by the U.S. Forest and National Park Services. Reveille was at 6:00 am and taps at 10:15 pm Monday through Friday for their work projects. Saturday morning was for work in their camps. Leisure occurred on Saturday afternoons and Sundays, when they could, with permission, go home or visit nearby communities. Voluntary religious services were held on Sunday at the camps, but enrollees could attend them in their local communities.

George B. Dorr, Acadia NP’s superintendent, saw the usefulness of the CCC and succeeded in getting its help. Three camps were established in the Park. One was the Eagle Lake Camp, 154th Company, located in Bar Harbor at the current site of Park headquarters. The second was the Great Pond Camp, 158th Company, located in Southwest Harbor near Long Pond (formerly Great Pond). The third was formed from a CCC camp in nearby Ellsworth and set up on the Schoodic Peninsula north of the U.S. Navy’s radio station (now Acadia NP’s Schoodic Education and Research Center). These camp workers completed hundreds of park projects, including helping to construct roads and bridges, clearing brush and fallen trees and planting new shrubs and trees, as well as building the Blackwoods and Seawall campgrounds. They also constructed and repaired trails, among them the Ladder and Perpendicular Trails and the Ocean Path on Mount Desert Island, and the Anvil and Schoodic Head Trails on the Schoodic Peninsula. The two main camps were among the country’s 100 camps that lasted the nine-year duration of the CCC program. The Schoodic Peninsula camp ran from 1934 to 1937.

The demands of WW II brought an end to the CCC in 1942. Over three million individuals across the country had served in the program.

CCC memorial-Oconee SP
 Recently I came across a CCC memorial in Oconee State Park in western South Carolina.*1 It states:
"The promptness with which you seized the opportunity to engage in honest work, the willingness with which you have performed your daily tasks, and the fine spirit you have shown in winning the respect of the communities in which your camps have been located merit the admiration of the entire country. You, and the men who have guided and supervised your efforts, have cause to be proud." President Franklin D. Roosevelt


This monument is dedicated to the honor and memory of over three million members who served in the Civilian Conservation Corps, 1933-1942. And to the members who built South Carolina's State Park System -- Oconee State Park -- Dedicated September 2001

In fact, the CCC built 16 state parks in South Carolina, Oconee SP among them. Twenty-six miles northeast of this memorial in Table Rock State Park is the CCC-built lodge overlooking Pinnacle Lake at the base of 3,157' Table Rock Mountain.*2 Eight miles north is the CCC-constructed Walhalla trout hatchery.*3 Fourteen miles west of the Oconee SP memorial, in the Chattahoochee National Forest of Georgia, is a CCC fish rearing pool.*4 A sign reads: The Civilian Conservation Corps built the trout rearing facility at this site. The tanks held fish to restock trout in local streams which was accomplished by hauling the fish in backpacks.

 
Lodge-Table Rock SP
Walhalla hatchery



Fish pool-Chattahoochee NF


Fish pool-Acadia NP
Fish rearing pools were among CCC undertakings in Acadia NP as well.  The remnants of one can be found at the south end of Long Pond on Cold Brook.*5 It is unmarked and about 200 feet south of the Cold Brook Trail. Just outside the Park boundary, it likely was on the site of the former CCC camp in Southwest Harbor.

It is interesting to note there is an identical CCC memorial to the one pictured in Oconee SP on the state capitol grounds in Augusta, Maine. It was dedicated on April 24, 2001. So far, 62 of these CCC memorial worker statues have been dedicated across the country.*6

The CCC was a remarkable program. Its men and achievements merit our remembrance.

*Footnotes:
1 Oconee SP CCC memorial coordinates: N34° 51' 55.632"  W083° 06' 19.110"
2 CCC-built lodge, Table Rock SP coordinates: N35° 01' 39.839"  W082° 41' 44.340"
3 Walhalla trout hatchery coordinates: N34° 59' 09.827"  W083° 04' 19.036"
4 Fish rearing pool, Chattahoochee NF coordinates: N34° 52' 57.599"  W083° 21' 02.967"
5 Fish rearing pool, Acadia NP coordinates: N44° 17' 56.700"  W068° 21' 02.637"
6 For information about them see http://ccclegacy.org/ccc_worker_statue_program.html

Monday, January 26, 2015

New Facts Concerning the Cross on Flying Mountain

Knowles
Since publication of the October 2014 blog article about the cross on top of Flying Mountain in Acadia National Park, additional information has emerged. Thanks to Hannah Stevens, archivist at the Northeast Harbor Library, and a letter she discovered in records of The Knowles Company founder Belle Smallidge Knowles it is now known the cross was erected on Flying Mountain in 1917.

The letter, signed by William Draper Lewis and Lincoln Cromwell, inter alia, states that it was the intent to have a granite cross built on the mountain to commemorate the 1613 establishment of the French colony on Fernald Point. However, they felt they needed to test the cross's acceptability to area residents. They thus first erected a replica wooden cross.
Lewis

Lewis, a Philadelphian, and Cromwell, a New Yorker, both Northeast Harbor summer residents, were members of a committee attempting to acquire the mountains surrounding Somes Sound on Mount Desert Island, ME.

In 1917 Lewis purchased Flying Mountain from the Fernald family and that same year turned it over to the Hancock County Trustees of Public Reservations.

Cromwell purchased Acadia Mountain also in 1917. He likewise then donated it to the HCTPR that year, as a memorial to Rev. Cornelius Smith and his wife, Mary.*1
Smith-Wheeler Memorial on Acadia Mountain
Lewis and Cromwell were members of the HCTPR. It was through the land acquisitions of this organization and its gift thereof to the U.S. Government that Sieur de Monts National Monument was established in 1916.*2  Additional acquisitions led to the expansion of Sieur de Monts NM and its renaming to Lafayette NP in 1919 and subsequently to Acadia NP in 1929.*3

Due to the letter we can deduce from whom authorization was obtained to install the cross on Flying Mountain in 1917. Yet the committee seemingly never gave its endorsement for construction of the planned granite cross, as the wooden cross continued on Flying Mountain until its natural demise in the mid 1920s.

*Footnotes:

1 The bronze memorial reads, "Acadia Mountain given to the public in memory of Rev. Cornelius Smith and his wife Mary Wheeler who were pioneers of the summer colony at Northeast Harbor 1886-1913." Their daughter was Cromwell's wife, Mabel.
2 The first land gifts to the HCTPR were in 1908 from George and Linda Cooksey of New York and Seal Harbor (Barr Hill and the Champlain Memorial land off Sea Cliff Drive [now named Cooksey Drive; the memorial was moved in the 1970s to a spot near the Route 3 entrance to the Day Mountain path]) and Eliza Lee Homans of Boston and Bar Harbor (The Bowl and The Beehive).
3 The 114 year-old HCTPR still exists and serves as the governing body of Woodlawn, the historic estate of George Nixon Black, Jr., in Ellsworth, ME.

Note: Knowles photograph is from The Knowles Company website.

Wednesday, October 22, 2014


The Cross on Flying Mountain, Acadia National Park -- a Mystery Unraveled
Just south of the summit of Flying Mountain, at the entrance to Somes Sound on Mount Desert Island, are unexplained pieces of iron -- eyebolts, rod and a brace -- embedded in a horizontal granite surface.  The site overlooks Fernald Point to the south.

Eyebolts
Cut rod and brace
What these iron relics are is revealed in a 1924 Bar Harbor Times photograph, which shows a cross on top of Flying Mountain.*1  The accompanying caption reads, "President-emeritus Eliot of Harvard, the earliest summer resident on the Northeast Harbor shore, stands on Jesuit Field [Fernald Point], at the site of the French Missionary Colony at the entrance to Somes Sound, briefly established in 1613."*2
                                                                                                                                                                          Bar Harbor Times
The  wooden cross was designed for Aimee (Rotch) Sargent, wife of Winthrop Sargent, summer residents of Northeast Harbor, by the architectural firm Cram & Ferguson of Boston.*3  The cross stood about 30' high. Near the base of the cross were the letters A M D G, which stand for Ad Majorem Dei Gloriam, [For the Greater Glory of God], the motto of the Roman Catholic Jesuit Society of Jesus.

                                                                                                                                                    Northeast Harbor Library
The year the cross was erected is unclear, but it might have been in 1913 in time for MDI's August Tercentenary celebration of the French-Jesuit St. Sauveur settlement in 1613 on Fernald Point.*4  The cross was gone by 1927, when it was reported it had toppled over in a storm and was not replaced.*5  The reason for not replacing the cross is not known. However, to commemorate the 1613 settlement nearby Dog Mountain had been renamed St. Sauveur in 1918 at the request of George B. Dorr, custodian of the new Sieur de Monts National Monument. Also, Aimee Sargent died in 1918 and was preceded two years earlier in death by her husband. These events would have weighed against the cross's replacement.

It is interesting to note that Aimee Sargent was the sister of Arthur Rotch of the Boston architectural firm Rotch and Tilden that designed St. Saviour Episcopal Church in Bar Harbor and other structures on Mount Desert Island. Ralph Adams Cram of the above-mentioned firm Cram and Ferguson had earlier worked at Rotch and Tilden. Thus the cross's link to Cram and Ferguson becomes evident.

The cross's site is easy to find, as the Flying Mountain trail cuts directly across it. The aerial map depicts the salient features mentioned above and includes the ANP and private property boundaries on Fernald Point.
*Footnotes:
1 Bar Harbor Times, March 19, 1924, p. 3.
2 Eliot retired as president of Harvard in 1909, a position he had held for 40 years. That same year he was elected president emeritus of the university.
3 I wish to thank Ethan Anthony of Cram & Ferguson Architects for his research of company files over the course of many months.
4 For more about this historic settlement see my blog posts dated September 27, 2012 and June 8, 2013.
5 Bar Harbor Times, June 15, 1927, p. 8.
GPS coordinates:
Flying Mountain cross site: N44° 18.110'  W068° 18.863'
Flying Mountain summit: N44° 18.130'  W068° 18.858'

Monday, September 29, 2014


Pathmaker -- The Tragic Death of Waldron Bates

[Due to the interest in my blog post "Waldron Bates -- Pathmaker" dated April 4, 2012, here is the more extensive article I wrote for the Bar Harbor Historical Society Newsletter of November 2011.]

On the south side of Gorham Mountain at the intersection of the Gorham Mountain Trail and the Cadillac Cliffs Path is a bronze plaque attached to a granite wall. It is a memorial to Waldron Bates. Shielded by an overhanging ledge, the plaque was designed by New York sculptor and Bar Harbor summer resident, William Ordway Partridge. After being exhibited in Bar Harbor, it was placed there in September 1910. It reads:

Photo courtesy of Harvard University Archives

 

1856-1909

WALDRON BATES

IN MEMORIAM

MCMX

PATHMAKER

 

 
Waldron Bates was born on November 24, 1856 in Boston, Massachusetts, to Samuel Worcester and Anna Matilda (How) Bates and named in honor of his maternal grandmother, Eliza P. (Waldron) How. His two siblings, Samuel Worcester Jr. and Charles How, followed in 1858 and 1868. He was the nephew of Charles T. How, an early developer of Bar Harbor and land donor. Bates graduated from Harvard in 1879 and received his law degree from Boston University in 1882. He never married.

Bates first visited Mount Desert Island about 1880 and joined the Bar Harbor Village Improvement Association in 1892, later becoming the organization’s Path Committee chairman (1900- 09) and president (1904-05). In 1896 he established himself as a mapmaker with the publication of the“Map of Mount Desert Island” and the “Path Map of the Eastern Part of Mount Desert Island” with co-cartographers Edward Rand and Herbert Jaques. Bates was also one of the original members of the Hancock County Trustees of Public Reservations, the Maine-chartered organization founded in 1901 for the purpose of “acquiring, owning and holding lands and other property in Hancock County for free public use.”

Bates further distinguished himself as a pathmaker. He planned and engineered trails to geologically interesting rock formations and exhilarating sites along rock ledges, wrote instructions about how to construct safe and durable trails, instituted a signage protocol to direct hikers along trail routes and designed a simple cairn to mark the paths and provide directional guidance to hikers. Termed “Bates cairns” today, they were easy to build and required few stones, thus lessening soil damage and erosion. Dr. Silas Weir Mitchell, Bates’ successor as Bar Harbor VIA Roads and Paths Committee chairman, said of him, “To him, more than any other, is owing the great system of some one hundred and fifty miles of paths, which are so complete as to make difficult at present any additions of value.” Prominent among them are the Cadillac Cliffs, Canon Brook, Giant Slide and Gorham Mountain trails.

With a passion for fitness and the outdoors, Bates was a member of the Boston Athletic Association, the organization that founded the Boston Marathon, the Massachusetts Fish and Game Protective Association, Boston’s Tennis and Racquet Club and Bar Harbor’s Kebo Valley Club. He enjoyed traveling to Florida; salmon fishing in Canada and in the summer of 1889 visited Yellowstone National Park and marveled at its beauty. Considering these activities and his strenuous hiking regimen on Mount Desert Island, Bates must have been in excellent physical condition. That may be why his sudden and horrific death, at the age of 52, was so shocking.

On Tuesday, February 9th, while en route from Boston to Aiken, South Carolina, on the Southern Railroad, he disembarked briefly at the railway station in Monroe, Virginia.* Trying to reenter the train, as it pulled away from the station, he slipped and fell under the wheels and was killed. The following account of the accident appeared in the February 18, 1909 edition of The Matthews Journal, a local weekly newspaper: “At Monroe, on the Southern Railroad, a well-dressed business man got off southbound passenger train 29 when it stopped to change engines. As it started he attempted to board a Pullman, but slipped under the car, and his head was nearly severed from his body which was found after the train had gone. A card was found on his person with the name Waldron Bates, Colonial Hotel, Boston, and the authorities have telegraphed there. Deceased seemed to be about 40 years old and weighed about 135 pounds.” Another local newspaper covering the accident, the Lynchburg News of February10, 1909, further disclosed that the stopped Pullman car was 100 yards north of the station when Bates departed it. Upon attempting to reboard the moving Pullman, Bates apparently slipped and got his clothes caught in the car’s truck. As the train continued on, he was dragged to a spot about 100 yards south of the station, where the body fell free. Southern Railroad officials were notified and they telegraphed the Colonial Hotel about the accident.
Monroe Station photo - courtesy of The Frank Cash Collection in
the Amherst County Museum, Amherst, VA.
The Diuguid Funeral Home in nearby Lynchburg prepared the remains and shipped the embalmed body, casket and clothing to Boston for funeral services. Its ledger records that Bates was age 52 and height 5’ 10” and accidentally killed at Monroe on February 9th at 8:45 PM. A George Perkin paid Diuguid $85 for its services.

After Bates’ body had been shipped to Boston, his brother Samuel had the body cremated and the remains interred in the Bates family plot at Mount Auburn Cemetery in nearby Cambridge. A simple stone marks his grave.

It is tempting to speculate that Bates’ death was no accident and that he might have been murdered by frustrated MDI developers and loggers. The tax-exempt HCTPR, of which Bates was a founding member, had been formed by very influential outsiders and was acquiring land to preserve. However, such speculation would be mistaken. The Diuguid funeral home noted the death was accidental and none of the newspapers that reported on Bates’ death mentioned any suspicion of foul play. Indeed, the Boston Journal reported on 11 February 1909 that the railroad had been exonerated by a coroner’s jury which decided Bates had left the train for exercise and had fallen under it while trying to get aboard after it had started. The paper further disclosed Bates had been suffering from some recent “mental trouble.” The Boston Daily Globe reported on the same date that building tenants at Bates’ 50 Congress Street, Boston, law firm suggested he might have been ill and traveling south for health reasons. Moreover, Bates’ death certificate from Boston’s Registry Division lists the cause of death as “accidentally killed by train.”

News of the tragic death of Waldron Bates prompted the Bar Harbor community to establish additional memorials:

- The Bar Harbor VIA changed the name of the Chasm Path on the north side of Sargent Mountain to the Waldron Bates Memorial Path. In his September 1909 report to the Bar Harbor VIA, Path Committee chairman Dr. Mitchell stated, “It was the last one [path] to which our friend, Mr. Bates, gave attention, and which he meant to have put in order for walking.” Upon its completion in 1910, the Waldron Bates Memorial Path became the first of Acadia National Park’s famed memorial paths. The path is no longer maintained by the Park and is mostly untraceable.

- The Kebo Valley Club, of which Bates had been a director and a designer of its golf course, installed a bronze plaque on a granite boulder at the 18th green. It reads: In Memory Of Waldron Bates, 1856-1909, Maker Of These Links To Whose Zeal And Ability The Kebo Valley Club Is Deeply Indebted. Extinctus Amabitur Idem [tr: The same man will be loved after his death].The Club, later renamed the Kebo Valley Golf Club, also established the annual Waldron Bates Cup golf tournament in his memory.

- In 2001 the Park reintroduced the Bates cairn. These modern memorials now guide hikers safely along the summit trails on the eastern side of the Park. Most consist of just two large base stones, a lintel stone joining them above with a directional, pointer stone on top. Bates cairns are maintained in the spring and fall by a group of about 20 volunteers, called Waldron’s Warriors, and in the summer by Friends of Acadia Ridge Runners. An observant hiker can still discover some of the original Bates cairns, which nowadays are mostly concealed by moss and lichen and surrounding vegetation.

- The existence of another Bates memorial plaque was reported in an intriguing article written by a former curator of the Bar Harbor Historical Society in 1981. The author wrote, “The Bar Harbor Association also paid tribute to Bates by putting another tablet on a large slab of granite overhanging the Chasm Brook Trail on Sargent Mountain and renaming it the Bates Memorial Trail.” Despite the efforts of individuals to locate and research this plaque, no corroborating evidence of its existence has ever surfaced.

A tribute to Bates appeared in the 1909 Harvard Graduates’ Magazine. It warmly said, “Much of his life, however, was passed at Bar Harbor, where, in the words of a near friend, ‘no face was better known and no voice more familiar than his, for he labored devotedly, unselfishly, vigorously, in his field, for the advancement of this town and island.’” Even in his death Bates sought to care for the island he loved for nearly 30 years. In his will he left bequests of $5,000 to both the Bar Harbor VIA and the Kebo Valley Club and specified that the VIA was to use the income to repair the “mountain paths of the island of Mount Desert.”

Given Bates’ many contributions to the magnificent trails system that we enjoy so much today, perhaps the reader will pause for a silent moment while hiking on the Gorham Mountain Trail or the Cadillac Cliffs Path to remember Waldron Bates, Pathmaker.

*At the time of Bates’ accident, Monroe was a newly established town lying seven miles north of Lynchburg. It was the site of a major railway yard where crews stopped, engines were changed, repairs done and coal replenished. The photograph of the Monroe station was taken by Monroe resident Frank Cash sometime between 1905 and 1915. The Southern Railroad ultimately stopped using Monroe as a station and terminal yard and removed all the buildings and support facilities.

Wednesday, August 27, 2014


The Fire Lookouts of Acadia National Park
A familiar summit sight and a popular hiking destination in Acadia National Park is the Beech Mountain fire lookout tower. While no longer functioning as such, it was once an important node in the Park's fire warning communications network.
Beech lookout today
                                           Acadia NP photo
Beech lookout then



The Beech Mountain fire lookout was established in 1937 about 250' southeast of the summit. Built of wood by the Civilian Conservation Corps, the structure lasted through the 1950s. A helicopter-borne prefabricated steel tower replaced it in 1960 and is still there today. It became operational by 1962 and was initially manned morning to evening, then later only during times of fire danger. It was last staffed in 1976. Acadia NP rarely opens the lookout to the public, but the tower's first landing is accessible to visitors to provide southerly and easterly views.





Sargent lookout today
                                                                        Acadia NP photo
Sargent lookout then
There was a second fire lookout, a CCC-built cabin, on top of Sargent Mountain. Little is known of this lookout, but from today's scattered remains it was constructed of wood on a stone base. Established in 1941, it was sited about 1,000' due north of the summit and provided northerly views from west to east. Manning the lookout was problematic. Unlike the Beech lookout, where staff could take a daily short hike from the parking lot, the Sargent lookout would have required prolonged, overnight manning and provisioning due to the difficulty of getting to and from the remote site. The lookout still existed in 1949, but its operations might have ended the following year.*1

Why the Sargent lookout was not replaced or even modernized, like the Beech lookout, falls to speculation. Unavailable funding and difficult manning could have been the cause.
The two lookouts' geographic locations did not provide full 360-degree views of the Park, but their fire warning function was folded into the Maine Forestry Service's network of fire lookouts. Two of the complementary MFS lookouts were on Blue Hill Mountain, 10 miles to the northwest of Mount Desert Island, and Schoodic Mountain, 11 miles to the northeast. Blue Hill ceased operations in 1991 and was torn down in 2005. Schoodic had already been razed by 1996.

                                            Acadia NP photo
Bernard lookout


A third CCC-built fire lookout reportedly existed on Bernard Mountain summit in the mid-1930s.*2  This location appears to be a misjudgment and is most likely the remnants of the Kaighn pavilion.*3  Further, collateral sources indicate the Park had just the two fire lookouts -- Beech and Sargent. Yet, other Park installations, such as this one, could have served as auxiliary fire lookouts due to their advantageous locations. For example, there once was a ranger station on top of Cadillac Mountain. It was built in 1932 in conjunction with the opening of the new summit road that year. Along with attending to visitors and handling traffic, fire warning was an assigned duty.*4







Insulators, pins and support cables





Communications at the Beech and Sargent lookouts was by telephone. A telephone wire was strung from the lookouts on a support cable and wrapped around Whitall Tatum clear-glass insulators secured to wooden crossarm pins attached to tree poles and live trees.*5  These telephone lines ran easterly from both lookouts.


One of many coils left along the lines







Maintenance of the lines, which passed over granite ledges and through dense woods, was a headache. Severe weather and falling trees clearly took a toll. Ostensibly to minimize the repair work, linemen left coils of wire along the telephone lines' routes. In the 1940s the radio began to replace the telephone in Maine's fire lookouts, which obviated telephone line maintenance issues and enhanced communications reliability.*6




In 1936 the Maine Forestry Service deconstructed the USN Radio Station communications towers at Otter Cliffs to use the material to build new fire lookouts elsewhere in the state.*7  The naval station, established in 1917 and decommissioned in 1935, is now the site of Acadia NP's Fabbri Picnic Area and Alessandro Fabbri memorial.

Postscript: I wish to thank Burt Barker, Paul Crowley, Gary Stellpflug and Roger Thompson for their recollections and expertise. I am also grateful to a team of intrepid explorers who provided the extra eyes to help me find the telephone lines.


Explorers making a discovery


*Footnotes:
1 Bar Harbor Times, April 14, 1949, p. 10.
2 Pathmakers, Olmsted Center for Landscape Preservation, National Park Service, Boston, MA, 2006, p. 136-137.
3 Philadelphian Robert Kaighn had property on Bernard Mountain, where he built a "pavilion" in 1911 about 75' south of the summit. A 1934 Coast and Geodetic Survey described it as being chained to the rock. Support pins and an eyebolt still remain.
4 Bar Harbor Times, June 15, 1932, p. 2.
5 Armstrong Cork Corp. bought The Whitall Tatum Co. in 1938. The insulators available for inspection by me had the added Armstrong logo "A", thus confirming post 1937 telephone lines.
6 For information about Maine's fire lookouts, see From York to the Allagash - Forest Fire Lookouts of Maine 1905-1991 by David N. Hilton, Moosehead Communications, Greenville, ME. 1997.
7 Bar Harbor Times, October 16, 1936, p.1.

GPS coordinates:
Beech Mountain lookout - N44° 18.650'  W068° 20.709'
Blue Hill Mountain lookout - N44° 26.044'  W068° 35.452'
Fabbri Memorial - N44° 18.851'  W068° 11.760'
Kaighn pavilion - N44° 18.138'  W068° 22.328'
Sargent Mountain lookout - N44° 20.763'  W068° 16.386'
Schoodic Mountain lookout - N44° 34.402'  W068° 08.814'